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| Deborah
Einbender Artist's
Statement
I am the third generation in my family to make my living in the
ornamental needle trades. Some of my earliest toys were gold bullion
emblems, designed for fraternal lodges, felt appliqué poodles, and
patches for children's sleep ware and jeans jackets. Since l970 I have
been working as a designer and leather crafts person, making one of a
kind and limited edition clothing and accessories. In l987 I founded
Einbender Studios, (formerly Scarlet Leather), as a full time business
and began experimenting with molding leather masks using techniques
borrowed from Renaissance Italy.
Technique
The process for the purses is a little different from the masks, akin
more to a limited edition hand rubbed leather monoprint. I begin by
sculpting a low bas -relief image in clay which I will eventually cast
into a harder casting compound. These are the forms over which I press
and burnish each wet bag individually, using both fingers and burnishing
tools, until the impression emerges, a fraction of an inch at a time.
Although molded over the exact same forms, no two faces are identical
because each piece of leather is completely different - even before I
begin to mold it. Some of that difference is caused by what part of the
body any one bag is made from, some from the unique history of each cow
which is written in its skin. On one bag the leather will be stretchy,
on another dense or fibrous, porous or grainy; sometimes two or three
qualities are present in one bag. Each type of leather requires a
different approach in order for the features to emerge and that means
really getting to know the leather and giving each bag individual
attention over and over again. This is the reason that a machine will
never be able to do what my trained eyes and hands can do. After the
image is finished, it is literally baked in with just enough heat to
harden the leather without drying out the natural oils. The active
phase of the molding/drying process takes anywhere from 30 minutes to
one and a half hours after which time each purse spends overnight in a
dehydrator. Finally the purse is ready to be airbrushed with leather
dyes, hand waxed and buffed in the tradition of fine leather work.
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