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Gild the Lily

Artists' Biography

Jacquelyn Rice and Uosis Juodvalkis, a.k.a. Gild the Lily, create wearables with flowers that fly and butterflies that dance.

Jacquelyn Rice and Uosis (pronounced "Wasis") Juodvalkis are the collaborators, who are wife and husband, using a camera, scanner, Macintosh computer, and ink-jet printer to imprint on silk, what seems like the entire miraculous pageant of nature's pigment and pattern bounty.

Butterflies and flowers -- such as orchids, tulips, and hellebores, a white, winter-through-spring bloomer, perhaps Rice's favorite -- form the basis of many creations.

Tunics and jackets are completely reversible and, given that the two sides of the fabric are printed differently, in designs related in feeling and yet starkly dissimilar, to turn a garment inside out is to be surprised and astounded.

Artists' Technique

"A lot of artists don't know how to use a computer, or what they do know isn't much," says Juodvalkis, explaining the couple's rare combination of artistry and computer skill. "The technology for knowing about computer color management and dyes is very rarified, so to have the aesthetic and the technical very well covered doesn't usually occur in one person. We feel the confluence of the two of us is really in the miracle category." Rice, to this day, expresses amazement that an artist like herself, used to building with her hands and proclaiming the value of handmade objects over the computer-aided, immediately became, as she says, "hooked" when her husband showed her the Blend Tool of Adobe Illustrator software, which allows the transformation of shapes into new forms.

At the end of the design process, Juodvalkis will often make color adjustments to help the printer bring out what shows on screen or to add his own interpretation to the design. The printer is 60 inches wide and houses four cartridges holding cyan, magenta, yellow, and black acid dyes for silk and wool. On silk, 20,000 dots of color per second are shot out, and at only .003 inch in diameter, the dots produce nearly continuous tones of color. Most silk and wool crepe is premounted in 15- to 20-yard rolls. A reversible fabric is flipped on the paper and run through the printer again.

The final fabric process of steam heating and washing offers yet another chance for adjustments. Rice never knows what the fabric will look like until it is removed after three hours in the steamer, a seven-foot-tall, missile-like machine that sets the dye.

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